Langkawi: Is the curse truly over?

February 05, 2011

Pantai Cenang, the Bukit Ceylon of Langkawi, is quiet.KUAH, Feb 5 Somehow, Langkawi has not taken off in the way it was supposed to. An island known for its myths and scenic jungles, and yes, cheap cars, this is where expatriates go to retire, and holidaymakers find their island paradise homes. Langkawi is touted to be Malaysias Bali. A week on the island proved a mixed bag of emotions among locals and expatriates (Malaysian and foreign) living and working there.It is true that its beaches are white, though the weather has been erratic of late. It also cannot be denied that Langkawi is a pretty island, and that comparisons to other seaside tourist spots, like Bali, Phuket and Koh Samui, would be unfair. However, for Langkawi to be on par with these places, it would need more than an image overhaul.The Economic Transformation Programme mooted by the Government cites that ... the tourism industry is targeted to raise total GNI (Gross National Income) contribution by RM67 billion to reach RM104 billion by 2020. This will require the sector to triple from the starting position of RM37 billion in 2009.

Pak Tam owns a corner stall selling chicken rice. He likes Langkawi the way it is.This incremental increase is driven by 12 EPPs (Entry Point Projects), which will deliver RM28.4 billion in incremental GNI and three business opportunities that will deliver RM28.6 billion in incremental GNI. In achieving this, an additional 497,000 jobs will be created.One of the EPPs the Government is targeting is eco-tourism or the mind-boggling nature adventure Malaysia aims to become one of the worlds best offerings of biodiversity. We target to have a recognised network of different biodiversity sites of international calibre, which will be developed and/or rehabilitate! d and al low for tourist participation in rehabilitation activities.It would seem that GLCs are taking notice of this cash cow, and Langkawi is a focal location. Khazanah expects to invest RM1billion with its partners between now and 2014 to develop Teluk Datai in Langkawi. The Langkawi Development Authority is targeting 2.5 million local and foreign visitors to the island next year. In 2010, more than two million tourists had visited Langkawi, and ... next years target could be attained easily.Prominent events to be held next year included the Langkawi International Maritime and Aerospace (Lima 2011) exhibition in December and the Le Tour de Langkawi (LTdL) cycle race beginning on January 23. Other events are the One District One Product Expo in April, the Malaysian Tourism Expo by the Malaysian Association of Tour and Travel Agents (Matta) in May and the International Geopark Youth Tennis in December, the article said.But does Langkawi deserve the investment that is being pledged by the Govt? Outwardly yes, but like many beauties desiring greatness, itll be more than Government Botox that will wheel in the tourists and the cash.WHAT A WOULD-BE ENTREPENEUR HAS TO SAYKarina Bahrin, a KL-based professional, plans to open her dream bed-and-breakfast outfit in Langkawi. The process has taken her over three years and the hotel has yet to materialise. The delay was caused by ... administrative setbacks... in which the land office had given both her and her architect the run-around. In most cases, the office did not seem to know what the rules and regulations were. There seems to be no structure at all. One department will tell you this, and send you off to another, which will tell you otherwise. Sometimes they do not even know what is what. The bureaucracy is frustrating.What made her decide to open a small hotel in Langkawi? Langkawi was the only island or beachside locale which had great weather all year around, unlike the East Coast which has the monsoons. Tourism is a year-round activity, and the islands charm is ! that it is international and still maintains its rural outlook.I do welcome the governments initiatives. Langkawi has not realised its full potential yet, and it may be that it is developing the wrong way. Uncontrolled infrastructure, like bridges leading to nowhere, does not support the islanders. The locals need guidance. Despite the number of foreign tourists thronging the island on a daily basis, the locals are ill-equipped to deal with their sensibilities. They think by having tacky buildings, that would attract tourists but that is not the case. The locals are not as exposed as other Malaysians from beyond the island who have come to work and live there.

Poorly made T-shirts on sale at marked up prices.However, while she lauds government support, Karina also sees many white elephants. Kuah, the business district of the island, has many unused structures. Who do these buildings benefit? Definitely not the local businessmen. I really hope Khazanahs presence can help. Ive heard good things about them. There are proper SOPs (standard operating procedures) ... what I think the government should spend on are conservation efforts, micro-credit ad business programmes for locals to come with tourists, and for people genuine about wanting to do business in Langkawi.What are her long-term plans for her business? First, to build my bed-and-breakfast! Im about 70% hopeful it will happen!WHAT THE INSIDERS SAYLiving in Langkawi is not cheap. Duty-free products such as alcohol, perfume, chocolates and Pyrex are reasonable, but comparatively less than KL prices. Brands like Body Shop, Levis, per se, cost as much as on the mainland. Real estate and car rentals defy logic. For instance, a condominium unit, which may not be as the same standard as Pantai Hill Park in Bangsar South, can set a potential tenant back by RM1,200 (to RM1,500) a month. Idyllic kampung houses, which are sought after by expatriates and Ma! laysians wanting a rustic life, are hard to find. If you do, you have to deal with either a very generous or mercenary landlord. Langkawi locals may smile a lot but when it comes to money, some have cottoned on to the game and will filch off you.A plate of nasi goreng at a small restaurant that is of the same standard as Cosy Corner, Ampang Park, will cost from RM5-RM10. A plain asparagus soup at The Lighthouse costs RM18. Souvenir gifts can be pricey and not well-made. In fact, many of the batik or reggae-inspired T-shirts dotting the roads of Pantai Cenang, are of poor quality. The one very surprising place, which offers beautiful gifts at reasonable prices, is the Four Seasons Hotel Langkawis gift shop, Gaya. Items ranged from RM30-RM150, and if the visitor wishes to indulge, there are luxury items he or she may purchase.Taxis, which are an evil necessity, are expensive. A 15-minute drive may cost a passenger RM50. A trip up to Gunung Raya and back is RM150. It only takes 25 minutes to drive up the mountain. Car rental for a car that has seen better days and could break down on you anytime are from RM120 a day.In spite of booming business, for hotelier SD, it has been quite hair-raising. When the locals realised his guesthouse near Pantai Cenang was successful, they blocked the road leading to his house, and demanded that he pay a monthly toll of RM200. After many pleas, which came to naught, SD had to seek the help of the police.Of course, not everyone in Langkawi is like that, but there are a good number of them who will find ways to skin off your back and are not ashamed of it, he says.

Othman Ayeb, naturalist and snake expert.Pak Tam runs a corner road stall selling the usual foods such as chicken rice and fried rice. He was born and bred on the island, and was a cook at a hotel before he opened his stall six years ago. He welcomes the influx of tourists but is wary of the budaya kuning. The ! locals a re Muslim and already the young are acting up by indulging in immoral behaviour. He does not want Langkawi to become another Phuket or Bali. It is fantastic as it is. In the same breath, he does wish that it is easier for Malays like him to set up businesses. The Chinese, they have money, so they can set up a business anytime. Orang Melayu, susah. We dont have that kind of money.WHAT THE WHITE MAN AND TWO SNAKE HANDLERS HAVE TO SAYFor retired engineer Jerold Hawkins, Langkawi was supposed to have been the tropical refuge he had been seeking. Hes lived on the island on and off for five years, and plans to move to ... somewhere in Europe where theres wine aplenty. Having said that, he is fond of the island and feels frustrated that it has not bloomed.It is not nightclubs and debauchery that he is seeking on the island.Langkawi has a lot going for it. The traffic and air quality are marvellous. And it is a relatively cheap place to live. Its got a good mix of locals and foreigners. But are these two worlds at ease with each other? No. The locals depend on tourism for their livelihood but something tells me they could do without us if they could! Langkawi is parochial the locals resent outsiders.Jerald has noted a gap in the market. Real estate is expensive, and very few locals and foreigners can afford to rent homes from RM1,500 a month. Theyre struggling to find homes. His plan is to acquire land and build single storey dwellings and gardens, to be leased for five to 20 years. Rental is capped at RM1,200 a month.He shakes his head. Im told were progressing but I see no will to do so. Narelle McMurtrie, owner of Bon Ton Langkawi, believes that Langkawi needs a middle class. All we have are tourism and manufacturing. There is no middle ground, and the island has never developed beyond tourism. From what she has seen, the tourism industry has peaked. Amenities, which will, in turn, provide employment to the locals, need to be built and developed, such as more hospitals and private schools. It would be more s! ustainab le if the island can be turned into a business or financial centre. Langkawi cannot just be a duty-free haven. People must move beyond alcohol, chocolates and Pyrex!She disagrees that staff are a problem. Most of her employees hail from Penang or Langkawi itself and they have been very accommodating to the guests, and are hardworking. The problem is not people. Langkawi is greatly affected by any disaster that happens elsewhere. If snow hits a city, like how it has in Europe, we do not receive guests. If a tsunami hits a nearby country, we are affected too. That is why, we cannot depend on just tourism.

Indara Rahayu, an eco-guide, says, Dont underestimate our local tourists.Othman Ayeb and his wife Indara Rahayu, eco-guides and snake experts, feel that it is high time everyone focuses on domestic tourism. The Malaysians who come know only of one thing: shopping. Its all about Pyrex! But from experience, and our own initiatives, when we educate Malaysians, drag them out of the bus to see a bit of nature, make them walk around for a bit, they fall in love with what they see and later, become proud of this treasure. Never underestimate our people, Indara says.Environmentalists and guides must be knowledgeable and passionate about their craft. When they communicate with tourists, they will be able to engage with them better. We have a great product. But the promotions we have conducted are not managed in the right way. Locals only know the island for cheap shopping. Foreigners are educated; they know what they are in for when they visit. There should be more incentives and domestic packages for Malaysians, and tours must be about two hours minimum. Packages must be inclusive, get families involved, Indara continues. Her husband stresses that eco-work should be combined with coach tours, too.Guides must be less about money, and more about passion. When you are passionate about your work, everyth! ing jala n!The consensus among the people interviewed for The Malaysian Insider is that Langkawi cannot compete with tourist spots like Koh Samui and its successful wellness industry or Bali and its living culture of Hinduism. Langkawis eco-tourism is a great draw for now, but with new and more naturalists heading towards the island, the market will be saturated. The island is not big.Is Langkawi headed for a decline then? That would be rather damning. A letter to The Star is pretty hopeful of the islands future, but also realistic of its challenges. Theres a lot of work to do, if Langkawi is to realise its potential.