Smithsonian's exhibition of presidents' wives inaugural gowns: Michelle Obama to Jackie Kennedy
When Michelle Obama arrived at an inaugural ball in 2009 in that white one-shoulder gown, it cemented her position as a major fashion influence.
But she is not the first - and by no means the last - first lady to have made a style statement in her debut appearance as the President's wife.
A new exhibition at the SmithsonianNational Museum of American History, which opens tomorrow, will see thedisplay of the most famous dresses worn by U.S. Presidents' wives - and a whole section has been dedicated to their first outfits in the role of first lady.
Michelle Obama wore a white one-shoulder gown by young designer Jason Wu for a ball in 2009 to celebrate her husband's inauguration. It is now part of a new display of first ladies' debut dresses at the Smithsonian
In addition to Mrs Obama's Jason Wu dress, gowns worn by Mamie Eisenhower, Betty Ford, Barbara Bush and Nancy Regan, as well as the more recent Hillary Clinton, form part of the exhibit.
All gowns are for very formal occasions, given that most were for state dinners or inaugural balls. And though they differ wildly in style, each a fascinating representation of the fashion at the time, there are also some startling similarities.
The palest pastels, along with vibrant yellow, are favoured almost universally until the late Eighties, when Barbara Bush stepped out in royal blue.
From then on, we saw a riot of colour, from Laura Bush's red crystal-embroidered Chantilly lace by fellow Texan Michael Faircloth in 2001, to Hillary Clinton in 1993, who wore a violet beaded lace gown, designed by Sarah Phillips and made by Barbara Matera, a theatrical costume maker.
But Lady Bird Johnson, Pat Nixon and RosaLynn Carter all wore gowns in shades of lemon and gold, while Mamie Eisenhower, Betty Ford, Nancy Reagan and Jackie Kennedy went for paler-than-pale hues.
Jacqueline Kennedy inaugural gown might well be one of the most memorable. She was careful to use American couturiers and her dress for the 1961 ball was made by Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf Custom Salon
Lady Bird Johnson wore a yellow satin gown and sable-trimmed coat by John Moore to the 1965 inaugural balls. The simple, timeless design was chosen with the Smithsonian display in mind
Indeed Mrs Kennedy's might well be one of themost memorable. Considered a fashion icon to this day, she was one of the most glamorous first ladies in history.
Though she favoured the likes of Chanel, she was careful to use American couturiers and her dress for JFK's inaugural balls in 1961 was made by Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf Custom Salon.
The dress, it was later reported, wa! s design ed from sketches and suggestions from Mrs Kennedy herself, and had a matching cape.
The gown won high praise, and Washington Post wrote at the time that the new First Lady's 'career as amajor fashion influence was beginning impressively.'
Barbara Bush
Hillary Clinton's violet beaded lace gown with iridescent blue velvet silk mousseline overskirt, worn for the 1993 inaugural balls, was designed by Sarah Phillips and made by Barbara Matera, a theatrical costume maker
One of the most lavish, though, was Mamie Eisenhower's; a Nettie Rosenstein design which boasted over 2,000 rhinestones stitched into the pale pink peau de soie.
There was huge media speculation about the dress at the time, and details were released to press a week prior to the 1953 inaugural balls, along with formal photographs.
For Rosalynn Carter, though, her debutappearance as First Lady in 1977 offered an opportunity to recycle a favourite gown - with mixed responses.
Thegold coat, worn over a blue dress with co-ordinating gold trim, was first worn for a 1971 ball celebrating her husbands inauguration as governor of Georgia.
Laura Bush wore a red gown of crystal-embroidered Chantilly lace over si! lk georg ette to the 2001 inaugural balls. The dress was designed by fellow Texan Michael Faircloth
As there was no formal inaugural event in 1975, Betty Ford made her debut instead at a State Dinner at the White House for the Shah of Iran in 1975. Pictured in the gown (right) at a State Dinner with his wife Farah
Her decision to re-use an old dress sparked media debate about the first ladys responsibility to the American fashion industry, the symbolism of an inaugural gown, and Americans desire for glamour in the White House.
Glamour is a word that appears in descriptions of subsequent first ladies' inaugural dresses though.
When JamesGalanos described how he came up with the design for Nancy Reagan's white beaded lace gown for her husband's inauguration in 1981, he said that he wanted to make her look glamorous, 'elegant and in keeping with the new formality.'
And designer Arnold Scassi, who created Barbara Bush's royal blue velvet and silk gown in 1989, described her as 'the most glamorous grandmother in the United States.'
When designer James Galanos described his inspiration for Nancy Reagan's white beaded lace gown for her husband's inauguration in 1981, he said that he wanted to make her look glamorous
At his inaugural ball in 1969, President Nixon knew wife Pat's yellow silk crystal-studded ensemble by Karen Stark for Harvey Berin would go down in history
The biggest compliments, of course, are those won from the President himself. Who could forget Barack Obama remarking, 'How good looking is my wife?'
Mrs Obama's gown, the newest addition to the Smithsonian collection was designed by young designer Jason Wu, who did not know until he saw her on television, that she had chosen his dress.
And at his inaugural ball in 1969, President Nixon knew wife Pat's yellow silk crystal-studded ensemble by Karen Stark for Harvey Berin would go down in history.
'I like all of Patsdresses, particularly this one tonight,' he said that night. 'When she gets finished with it, youll get it at the Smithsonian.'
Lady Bird Johnson also had the Smithsonian in mind when commissioning her simple yellow satin gown and sable-trimmed coat by John Moore for the 1965 inaugural balls.
One of the most lavish gowns was Mamie Eisenhower's for the 1953 inaugural balls. She wore a Nettie Rosenstein design which boasted over 2,000 rhinestones stitched into the pale pink peau de soie
For Rosalynn Carter, her debut appearance as First Lady in 1977 offered an chance to recycle a favourite gown
Betty Ford too, considered the collection at the Smithsonian, when commissioning her pale green! sequinn ed chiffon dress from Frankie Welch, carefully specifying a favourite colour.
As there was no formal inaugural event that year, she made her debut instead at a State Dinner at the White House for the Shah of Iran in 1975.
She would wear it a second time for another State Dinner the following year, for King Juan Carlos of Spain.
The First Lady Debuts display forms part of the First Ladies Collection, which, for more than 100 years, hasbeen one of the most popular attractions at the Smithsonian.
The new display will also examine how first ladies have shaped their roles as the role of women in society has changed.
The museum is moving some collections as it prepares to renovate its west wing with new permanent exhibits on the presidency, first ladies and politics.
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